The Emperors 2.0

It's been quite a while since I have written anything here. The reason for that is that there really hasn't been anything to write about. June and July are the months that provide us with the most darkness, which means the opportunity and the motivation to travel off station are minimal. I did in fact venture up on the plateau for a work trip to each of our three field huts with some others one day early in July. We chose a crystal clear day which meant the views were spectacular. The downside of the clarity was the temperature. Not taking into consideration any wind chill, the air temperature was around -40 degrees Celsius. So cold you could feel the surface of your tongue freezing as you breathed.

Now however the daylight hours are extending, which means more opportunity and enthusiasm for "jollies" out on the sea ice to visit the penguin rookery. It is still bloody cold (July and August are our coldest months) but on a calm day the low temperatures don't have the bite that you'd expect once you've acclimatised. The realisation that we are now virtually half way through our time here also boosts motivation to make the most of every day that presents itself as suitable for such opportunities. And so it was that last Sunday myself and six others departed Mawson at 8am bound for Auster Rookery. Four of us planned to stay overnight, with the other three returning to station that evening.

We arrived at Auster at 11.45am, after a very bumpy journey across approximately sixty kilometres of sea ice and snow drift.

Peak hour traffic, Antarctic style.

The Hagglunds we travel in are great machines, but generally are built for purpose, not creature comfort. Nearly four hours bouncing around in the back with virtually no suspension takes a toll on your body, especially with a lower back that likes to remind me of my age at the slightest opportunity.

Sunday was overcast but calm, which meant a comfortable day at the rookery. The light wasn't great for photo's but the penguins didn't care. Within minutes of arriving, and less than halfway from the Hagg to the rookery I found myself surrounded by a welcoming committee that had broken away from the massive congregation to come and greet us. This group had started walking towards the Haggs as soon as we arrived. When I stopped halfway across they deviated and made a beeline for me. Proof to me that they actually enjoy our company. This provided an early opportunity to fulfil a request I'd received from home. My neighbour back home is studying different ways to chill water as a school project, and Deb had suggested I should get some photo's of a glass of water in the snow or ice with some penguins in the background.

As soon as they noticed me they hurried over.

The penguins and the glass of water....

With the photo's taken, as well as a short video, I spent the next hour or so just enjoying the tranquillity of the location and the company of my new feathered friends.

Soon enough our time at the rookery was over for the day, and we departed for Macey Island and the hut that would be our home for the night. The other three travellers continued on toward Mawson while we unloaded our gear and proceeded to get the hut warmed up for the night. Each hut contains a small gas heater and a three burner cooker and oven. Along with this it has solar electricity as well as 230 volt circuitry which enables us to connect to a generator and plug in an electric fan heater. With all of these heat sources going it only takes an hour or two to bring the inside temperature up to a comfortable level. Soon enough the four of us were settled in with a hot cuppa and cheese and crackers, as we relived the days events.

Monday dawned an absolute cracker of a day. The sunrise was spectacular, and soon we were packed up and on our way back to the rookery.

The dawning of a perfect day.

The light that is presented here makes it almost impossible to take a poor photo.

The light was perfect for photography, and the penguins were just as keen to hang out with us as they always seem to be. Soon I was again surrounded by a group of nine, and we spent over an hour together before I had to move due to the fact I was starting to seize up. When I stood up and walked away all of my new friends followed me for several minutes, then some broke off and headed back into the larger group. Five of them however continued to follow, and eventually gathered around me again when I stopped about three hundred meters away on the other side of the rookery. They really are the coolest creatures. They walk up to you and just stand and look. Sometimes they'll circle you, but mostly they are just content to stand in front of you and hang out. The only conclusion I can draw is that they genuinely enjoy human interaction.

Again, the time to begin the journey home arrived all too soon, and we sadly said farewell to our friends once more. Each time I leave I am only too aware that I may never get the chance to come back. All it would take is for me to injure myself badly on station and my field travel would be severely limited. It is for this reason that we all take every opportunity we are given to get back out there again. Hence the reason I am planning another overnight trip this Thursday. The weather is looking good.

I know I've written it here before, but visiting the penguins at Auster really is a special thing There are many reasons why. The fact that I am amongst only a few people in the world who will ever have the opportunity to visit and interact with these special creatures in such a beautiful location is only a small part of it.

And they'll stand with you for hours. How could you not love them.

The rookery in the background. The angle doesn't show, but it would be over a kilometre long.

There are many things that make the experience so wonderful. The birds themselves are amongst the most beautiful you could wish to look at. Their plumage is just immaculate, and they are so open to us, curious and eager to approach us. They are also possibly the most gentle creatures I have ever encountered. I have not yet seen one emperor display even the slightest aggression to another. They just seem to coexist in absolute harmony. The location they choose to come to breed every year is possibly the most breath taking place I have ever visited. Not just for it's scenery, but for the sheer untouched and unadulterated rawness of it.

The obligatory selfie.

The fact that it is as isolated, and remote as you can get in this world is yet another aspect that adds to the experience.

We have roughly another four months until the sea ice weakens and closes to traffic. Unfortunately that day will come all too soon. Our schedule for the last half of our year here will be busy with various projects starting up as spring and summer develop. I will continue to make the most of every opportunity I am given to visit my new friends the emperors.


Future generations.

The day will sadly come when I will have to say good bye to them for the last time. I have come to enjoy their company immensely, and I will not be surprised if I find a tear in my eye when that moment arrives, knowing that I will most likely not pass this way ever again.